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Many health conditions, if not treated properly and/or husbandry conditions remain insufficient, will cause your chameleons health to deteriorate and they will eventually succumb. An emergency vet visit and husbandry assessment/correction is critical if your chameleon is going to have the best chances of survival.
Is my Chameleon Sick?
Minor abrasions are not a major concern, chameleons can heal from scrapes and bites leaving only superficial imperfections. Excessive rubbing will cause black patches or even open wounds, and may take some time to heal. Keep enclosure free of any sharp edges, clean cut any zip ties inside enclosure, and watch for any abrasive activity like rubbing their nose on the sides of the enclosure or squeezing themselves into small spaces. This kind of activity is usually the result of suboptimal husbandry, like high temps, lack of sufficient coverage, lack of a lay bin for females, or possibly the natural instinct to reproduce causing them to hunt for a mate. Medication free Neosporin or Manuka honey can be gently applied with a q-tip to small wounds. You must keep an eye out for infection, which will require antibiotics.
Injuries that result in bleeding can become infected. It is imperative that you keep chameleons in separate enclosures, and keep chameleons protected from others pets and pests. Be sure to secure any hanging or wall mounted plants. Large wounds or bites that result in missing or necrotic tissue may need veterinary care and antibiotics.
Kinks with isolated discoloration may be an indication of a broken bone caused by some form of trauma. Severe infections may can dissolve bone matter causing them to break. MBD can cause multiple fractures resulting in bent/curved limbs. In most cases this requires special medical treatment, splints or amputation may also be required.
Burns to back and casque can cause severe, and sometimes permanent tissue damage. You will see greying, and even melting of spines and casque. If your light is too close to the top of your cage, or your basking branch is too high, your chameleon is baking itself. Check the temp and UVB levels of the highest point on their body, not the surface of branch supporting it. It may seem backwards but it may also be caused by low ambient temperature, when it’s too cold the chameleon will try to get closer to the light to warm up. It could also be insufficient UVB, they can see ultraviolet light and may start to cook themselves seeking out the correct levels. Silvadine cream can be used to treat minor burns, however a vet visit should be scheduled ASAP.
Very thin and dehydrated looking chameleon with burns to cask and back.
Dehydration will present itself through thick saliva, sunken eye turrets, and loss of suppleness in skin. A skin fold test may be conducted to check for skin elasticity (see Petr Necas YouTube video on how to perform skin fold test properly). A correction/ improvement in hydration methods is critical. Fogging for a minimum of 6 hours during the night will rehydrate your chameleon without adding substantial stress, be sure your chameleon is sleeping within the area of effective humidity. Adding a few minutes to misting sessions and running a dripper will offer supplemental drinking options. Feeding your chameleon hornworms will also be beneficial. Monitor your chameleon closely, dehydration can be in conjunction with a multitude of other conditions.
A very malnourished and dehydrated chameleon with sunken eyes.
Swelling in the neck/collar is a sign of advanced edema, fluid retention linked to over-supplementing of vitamins A and D3. Re-evaluation and adjustment of supplement schedule is necessary. See Supplement Chart to determine and compare vitamin D3 and A totals.
A proper lay bin must be in your chameleons enclosure as soon as they reach a reproductive age (6 months) regardless of having mated or not. Appropriate husbandry ie: coverage, nutrition, and hydration is critical for gravid females. A reduction in food and temperature before embryonic development will aid in egg-binding prevention. Obese chameleons have higher chances of egg retention. If your gravid chameleon becomes lethargic, has difficultly breathing, or closes her eyes during the day she is egg-bound and requires immediate medical attention. A well trained vet can induce labor and/or preform a c-section to remove the eggs.
An infection of the eye is very concerning, and may spread into other areas of the chameleons head or skull. Any debris that refuse to exit the eye cavity can also become an issue. A chameleons vision is essential for hunting and will be impaired if damaged. A vet visit will be necessary and likely require antibiotics.
Fungal infections will appear as fuzzy patches on the skin. They are very deadly and must be treated immediately. This condition is highly contagious, quarantine and disinfection of the enclosure will be necessary. A vet will prescribe anti-fungal medication. If it is caught early your chameleon has the best chance of survival, however, in advanced cases of fungal infections, this may not be successful and the chameleon may not recover.
A chameleon suffering gout will have painful swelling in the joints and limbs, making it difficult for them to climb or hold on to branches. Gout is mainly attributed to obesity and over-feeding. Dehydration may also play a role in the formation of the crystalline uric acid structures that cause gout. Organs in the chameleon may begin to fail. Reduction of food intake and rehydration may help in early stages, however, a vet visit is imperative. Vets may use medication to help lower uric acid levels.
Signs of swollen joint in female chameleon.
Gaping, becoming light in color, and moving to the coolest location of the enclosure, are signs of an overheated chameleon. Any lethargy or sunken eyes will require immediate attention. Cutting off the heat light and lightly misting will help your chameleons temperature return to normal fairly quickly, but be sure not to add additional stress by attempting to rapidly chill them. Rehydration is crucial, supplemental hydration can include: running a dripper through the day, increasing misting sessions, lengthening fogging time, and feeding hornworms. Temperatures must be at the proper levels and measured at the closest point between the chameleons body and the heat lamp. Common mistakes are: not having a cooler/shaded area of the enclosure where your chameleon can retreat to regulate its temperatures, keeping a chameleon in excessive direct sunlight, and keeping a thermostat set to the highest level the chameleon can endure. Be sure to see a vet if the chameleons condition does not improve.
A blockage in the chameleons digestive system may be caused by being dehydrated, problems with digestion due to low temperatures, or eating large particles/quantities of substrate, fake plants, or large quantities hard-bodied insects. If your chameleon has not defecated for an unusual length of time and looks bloated, a slight increase in basking temperatures and supplemental hydration should begin. If your chameleon may be eating inanimate objects or décor, the soil or substrate should be covered or removed, as well as any fake plants. This condition can be fatal and will require medical treatment if not remedied by husbandry changes.
Bacteria may cause infections in any part of the chameleons body, especially in a chameleon with a weakened immune system. You may notice swelling, discoloration, signs of dehydration, pustules, or lethargy. This is an immediate cause for concern and will need medical treatment of the area, a full round of antibiotics, and in some cases, surgical treatment.
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